Aix en Provence is often referred to as “the city of Cezanne”. It’s hard to miss the “Cezanne Steps” emblems on the sidewalks of Aix; these symbols take tourists to some of the most famous sites of Cezanne’s artistic inspiration. The problem with looking at your feet to follow the small landmarks is that you may miss some of the sights along the way. We could fill a book and several photo albums to really describe this city. Aix en Provence has a long history (founded in 123 BC) as a center built on hot springs or “thermae”. Aix is a student city, tourist city and the official center of the 13th department of France.
The interesting thing is that it was not “love at first sight” for me. The city is frankly a bit scruffy, and it can take a bit of time to get under your skin. the famous boulevard Cours MirabeauAlthough tree-lined and shady, it’s also home to a mix of very touristy restaurants, banks, and uninteresting retail stores. The old town (old Town) is a maze of small, crowded streets, brimming with retail stores, restaurants, breweries, and bakeries. It took a few weeks of walking the streets to get his bearings properly. We had several tries and many failures with restaurant meals before selecting the best options available. The markets are attractive however I would warn you to be shopper beware as there are some very expensive vendors in the market that can spot a tourist sucker, it can take a while to spot the regular and reliable vendors.
Now that we are about to leave Aix-en-Provence, it is with a heavy heart. We have had great experiences and would like to share some of your favorites for your next visit:
Bakery: This is difficult in France, as there are so many good ones. My favorite is Crazy Farinoman, his bread is rustic and unique. His unique breads include a couple of standouts, Master Goji (goji berries and raisins) and Choco Souris (chocolate smile).
Coffee: My opinion is that French coffee is good if you order an espresso but marginal if you order something with milk like a “grande creme” (coffee with milk). There is a big chance that you will get a weak and lukewarm drink. We found two places that were consistent, La Brulerie and Italy Coffee Shop.
Creperie: Without a doubt, the crepes made by Delphine at Crêpes Cidres and Company are the best in town. Delphine is originally from Brittany and insists on using authentic Breton ingredients (this is not always easy in Provence). Her pancakes are hot and made to order. The espresso is consistent and the special treats like Ella Madeleine’s mini cookies are delicious. If that’s not enough, she’s lovely. Stop!!
Doors: The best thing about exploring a city like Aix with such a deep history is the ability to delight in the thousand-year-old architecture and wonder what lies behind the endless beautiful doors.
Sources: As mentioned above, the city was built on hot springs and the main streets have several beautiful fountains as a nod to that history.
Frozen: My husband tried all the obvious places and definitely Amorino at the end of the Cours Mirabeau It is his favorite without a doubt, it is worth every euro. His chocolate is also noteworthy, it is expensive and exquisite.
Market: Aix-en-Provence is fantastic as there is a market every day. The local market in Place de Richelme is the one that caught our attention and we found our trusted suppliers, who work very hard, long hours.
Restaurants: As we said above, Aix is many things but above all a student and tourist city. This is not necessarily a good match for decent restaurant options. Certainly, there is no shortage of eating establishments, but most of them we would not recommend. We have felt confident in recommending the following:
- Le Millefeuille (small, nicely decorated, with a daily changing menu)
- L’Epicurien Restaurant (7-10 tables, menu changes weekly) – Divine
- La Cave d-Yves (small wine bar, small tapas-style menu, great batches of wine, and a sommelier who really knows his stuff)
- Red Card (very small, this place makes Yves look spacious, very tasty food, daily menu, cooked to order) – Book
- Tapas Cafe (on Place des Augustins, doesn’t look like much from the outside but the food is authentic Spanish tapas and we liked the mojitos)
- Poivre d’Ane (bright and small, they offer two prix fixe menus) – excellent service, reservations are a must
Cezanne road: Easily accessible from the city center, this country road to Mont St Victore and the vineyards is a must see. It’s lovely for a short bike ride or a longer ride.
Special events:
- The Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur for the Scandinavian Christmas concert in honor of Saint Lucy
- Concert of the Church of Saint John of Malta “Chœurs au Diapason” of the Order of Malta – 10 euros for a “sacred program and opera arias”
- the granite muse
In the end, there is much to love about Aix en Provence. My advice is to book your trip and find some of your favorites.