For those who saw the 2010 memoir-based film starring Julia Roberts, Eat, Pray, Love, you’d have a good idea what I meant by Pray, Eat, Rest, in “Ching San Yen” (Green Hill Temple), also known as “Cheh Sua” in the Hokkien dialect, located in Muara Tebas, Kuching, Sarawak. Not the same sequence or setting, of course, but quite similar, as experienced on a day trip to a Malay fishing village, situated on the estuary or mouth of the Sarawak River, and called Kampung Muara Tebas in Kuching, Sarawak.
The prayer is held at Green Hill Temple, Kuching, if you are a Buddhist or like to pray to the temple’s host deity, Shakyamuni Buddha, and other Chinese deities such as the Male Sea Goddess. If not, don’t be put off, as visiting this 200-year-old Chinese temple was itself a special occasion due to its history, design, panoramic view, and the intriguing incongruity of a thriving Chinese temple set in the middle of a Malaysian fishing. town.
Occupying a 2.5-acre ancient site on top of a hill, 120 feet above sea level, Green Hill’s Kuching Temple stood like a silent but watchful sentinel, overlooking the Malay fishing village and the distant South China Sea. In centuries past, sea travelers paid their respects and gave thanks at the temple for a safe crossing of the South China Sea to and from the then prosperous trading port of Muara Tebas. They would also get blessings for good health and good fortune.
My family and I left for Green Hill Temple Kuching or Cheh Sua mid-morning, and it was a smooth and peaceful drive to Kampung Muara Tebas, about 35 kilometers away and a 30-minute drive from Kuching city, Sarawak. As we were going on a normal weekend, not when it was the 1st or 15th of the lunar month or during Chinese New Year where hundreds or even thousands of worshipers and devotees would flock to Green Hill Temple. There were enough parking spaces; and no parking or entrance fees were imposed. Otherwise the local village boys would charge a nominal fee of RM2 to RM3 to help look after your car.
At the foot of Green Hill’s Kuching Temple, be prepared to climb a long flight and a series of steps to reach the main entrance, guarded by fierce-looking lion statues and towering figures of heavenly deities. I was pretty out of breath when I got to the top but the view was stunning and would take your breath away. Green hills and blue sea surrounded by a calm natural environment. It was great feng shui!
The temple, which underwent major renovations and improvements between 1994 and 2000, shone bright and attractive in the sun. It was an impressive sight to see: the white walls, columns and structures contrasted with colorful patterns, images and artifacts of dragons, fish, flowers painted in red, green, blue, yellow and all shades of the rainbow. The Green Hill Temple covered a floor area of almost 10,000 square feet, encompassing the main hall with a middle chamber and two wings, left and right; a vegetarian dining room; two public restrooms; a decorative fencing wall; beautiful landscaped garden; A fountain; and the pair of huge Buddha or Buddhapada footprints, inscribed with 108 golden auspicious marks or symbols on them.
After climbing those steps and walking around the Green Hill temple admiring the temple, I was ready to eat at the foot of the temple. One gets to taste the fresh seafood, for which Muara Tebas is known to this day.
The meal took place at Lim Yong Seng Seafood Restaurant, one of two seafood restaurants in Kampung Muara Tebas, Kuching. The other is Sin Soon Lee Seafood Restaurant, which I have yet to try. Fine gastronomic lunch with the catch of the day: steamed drunken prawns, steamed crabs, steamed fish head, steamed oysters, lobster sashimi, bracken braised with belacan (spicy prawn paste), cangkok manis (stir-fried vegetables) with eggs , accompanied by steamed white rice, and all washed down with pandan coconut drinks. Fresh seafood should be enjoyed steamed, without too many seasonings, or fried, to really savor its innate sweetness and freshness. Although lunch was not cheap, considering the seafood dishes we ordered and consumed, it was well worth the money.
Rest was necessary, after the delicious meal and we continued to sit and relax in the rustic setting, looking at the bobbing boats anchored near the shoreline and jetty area, listening to the lapping of the tides and appreciating the sea breeze coming in. to cool down the interiors of the restaurant, but the rotating fans around the outlet also helped with the cooling effect. We left Green Hill Temple and Kampung Muara Tebas very satisfied, and rest continued on the way back to Kuching city, and for the rest of the afternoon with a nap, at least for me after such a hearty meal.