Q: Is Spanish food the same as tapas?
A: No, not really, but in the UK the two terms have become almost synonymous. The origin of tapas, the ancient practice of a bar providing small pieces of food to patrons to cover their drinks and keep out dirt and bugs, is now well known and a bit of a cliché. Tapas are just one part of food culture in Spain and have been interpreted differently in the UK to suit tastes.
Q: So what is the difference between tapas in the UK and Spain?
A: Essentially the same typical dishes are present. Readers will probably be familiar with tortilla de patatas, patatas bravas, and shrimp with garlic and the like, but the concept is different in the two countries. In Spain, tapas are a kind of appetizer to be enjoyed with drinks (but not necessarily free anymore). The portions are very small and tapas would rarely be considered lunch or dinner, unless an afternoon at the bars was going to last longer than expected! In the UK, of course, eating tapas means eating out, sitting at a table and ordering lots of small plates to share. I think this is mainly because there is no ‘space’ for Spanish style tapas in UK daily schedules – they finish work then eat! So, of course, going out for tapas in the UK means going out for Spanish food, where you’ll find the same 20 or so dishes in every Spanish restaurant (often referred to as a “tapas bar”, although knowledgeable readers of Spain know that are anything but that).
Q: So what is Spanish cuisine beyond tapas?
A: For me, Spanish cuisine is a style rather than a collection of dishes, although of course the most common Spanish dishes are now famous throughout the world and are often presented as a representation of Spanish gastronomy. More than anything, it often makes very little sense to speak of ‘Spanish’ cuisine as there is such a wide variation in styles and ingredients from province to province.
Q: But presumably there are some basic themes shared from one region to another?
A: Absolutely. If you look at a national gastronomic style in terms of ingredients and technique, it is easy to see the common aspects of Spanish cuisine. When it comes to ingredients, the keywords are fresh and basic. Few dishes rely on complex combinations of subtle flavors and exotic herbs and spices. The basic ingredients of many dishes are onion, garlic, olive oil and perhaps tomato. Add to that a limited range of herbs and spices: paprika, saffron, parsley, rosemary, bay leaf, etc. Cured meats from northern Spain like chorizo are a common addition, but not necessarily the main focus of the dish; instead, look for simple, fresh cuts of beef, chicken, pork, and fish and/or shellfish. Finally, do not forget the basic accompaniments such as legumes and rice.
Q: And technique?
A: Spanish food is often considered oily, and not without reason. Frying in olive oil is perhaps the main cooking technique, along with grilling (grilling) and roasting meats (asados). But with excellent extra virgin olive oils and judicious use, frying adds a distinctive touch to many Spanish dishes.
Q: So if you were to create an ad hoc ‘Spanish style’ dish for dinner tonight, what would it be?
A: Well, here’s one I did a couple of weeks ago that worked really well. In a heavy-based skillet, heat the minced garlic in premium olive oil just enough to take the heat off. Fry up a few cubes of pancetta, bacon, ham, or even chorizo and then add a can of pre-cooked beans. In another pan, lightly cook some green asparagus tips, I use a small covered pan with just a tablespoon or two of water so they steam instead of boiling, and then add them to the mix. Drizzle the batch with lemon, more olive oil if needed, and some chopped fresh parsley. Serve with some fresh crusty bread for a great lunch. It may not be an authentic Spanish dish, but it certainly has the right style that it could be.